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Tuneup Front Suspension
Tip 1 – Keep an eye on the leading edge of the carbide runner. Every ski mounts the runners differently, and one major area of concern is the leading edge of the runner. Just think about the edges of trailers, crossing railroad tracks, and any other edge that your runner could catch on and the importance of having the leading edge of your runner well up into the ski should become very clear. People fly over the handlebars when their skis catch things unexpectedly, and many times it could be avoided.
Tip 2 – Grease all front suspension zerks every few hundred miles. Not because the grease is gone, but more so to push out any moisture that has entered the area.
Tip 3 – Pay special attention to the ski leg bushing; the one the ski bolt runs through. This bushing should fit tightly into the spindle without any slop or extra clearance, and should be lubricated so it can pivot.
Tip 4 – Make sure your ski runners are straight. This may sound stupid, but you’d be surprised at the riders we’ve seen monkeying around with front spring tension, limiter strap length and other adjustments because their sled is not handling right and they “just put new runners on, so that’s not the problem”. Anytime your sled doesn’t seem to be handling right, the FIRST thing you check is the runners; are they straight, are there any chunks of carbide chipped or missing, are the studs tight (do not over-tighten, they break off real easy).
Tip 5 - When you perform ski alignment, place a elastic tie-strap between the ski tips to pull in on them slightly to remove any slop or extra clearance. This way, you will be sure your final alignment will not possibly induce any toe-in. Any amount of toe-in is a bad deal; you’d far rather have a half-inch of toe-out than any amount of toe-in. Most sleds should be set to 1/8” to 1/4” of toe-out; the more there is, the more “relaxed” the steering response will tend to be.
Tip 6 – Keep all ball joints and steering linkage clean and lubricated. What good is a precision ski alignment if all of the steering linkage lets the skis flop around a half-inch (or more)? Ball joints should all rotate freely once broke in. Keep them lubricated with a quick shot of penetrating lube, especially after trailering.
Tip 7 – Make sure your front suspension springs are not too loose. Most riders make their adjustments to the front ski suspension springs with the skis on the ground. Problem is that when the front end is unloaded, they could have adjusted the springs so loose (with the skis on the ground) that the springs do not have enough tension to stay seated when the suspension is unloaded. Spring retainers and collars can fall off if the spring is too loose. With the skis in the air, make sure there is at least some amount of pre-tension to keep the springs seated.
Tip 8 – Try to keep both front suspension springs at the same setting. Either count the number of turns or measure the distance or count the threads, whatever works to keep both springs the same. This adjustment affects ski pressure during steady-throttle conditions, and can account for a sled darting one way or the other consistently. Better yet, get a set of matching bathroom scales and place one under each ski leg, paying special attention to exact placement of each. See how many pounds each ski shows, then swap the scales to make sure your data is correct. If they’re not the same, even though the springs measure or count out to the same setting, you can adjust one spring or the other so both skis “see” the same amount of pressure. It would surprise you how far off (dissimilar) springs can really be.
Tip 9 - Ski selection is a very personal choice. What one person likes in a ski character is about as different as our choices in a girlfriend (or boyfriend for you gals). Just because one person likes a ski type doesn’t make it right for you.
Tip 10 - Wider skis provide more flotation and stability. More ribs (or runners) make the ski less prone to tracking in previous ruts, thus reducing darting. If you’re looking for a balance between easy steering and cornering accuracy, try a set of skis with a “keel” curvature to the bottom profile.
Tip 11 – If your skis have down-turned outside edges, you will want to rotate your skis to even out the wear on the outside edges, as they will wear out faster than the inside edges. Some riders with 2001 RMKs reported excellent stability by swapping around their offset skis and running them with the wide part to the outside for trail riding, then swapping them back so the wide portion is on the inside for off-trail deep snow operation. (The new Ski-Doo offset skis only have a runner on the outside edge so this won’t work with the new Summit skis.)
Tip 12 – If you’re really into slot-car flat cornering or think your front end is a bit soft, you may want to investigate installing a heavier sway bar (actually an anti-sway bar). Sled makers have pretty much gone to smaller diameter sway bars in an attempt to provide increased ride comfort and bump compliance, with the side affect being body roll and ski lift. Many riders find the balance they personally want once they install a larger diameter sway bar.
Store your sled
for the summer:
1. Remove the drive belt and wash the the whole sled down with warm water and soap, this includes the engine compartment and engine.
2. After the sled is dried off. Remove the air box assembly as per manufacturers procedure.
3. Start the engine and let warmup.
4. Turn fuel off and as engine is running a little off idle spray ENGINE FOG into the carburetors. This will cause the engine to want to stall so you have to regulate the amount of fog you use. This is done right up untill the carburetors are empty. When the engine starts to bog (its out of fuel) Start to really spray the fog into the carbs. This will flood the engine with Fog and help protect the inner parts.
5. Remove the spark plugs and spray fog inside the cylinders and then replace the plugs.
6. Reistall air box assembly in reverse to step 2.
7. Loosen the track off as per manufactures procedure.
8. Grease all fittings as per manufactures maintenance procedure.
9. Wax the sled cowl and spray the whole sled this includes the seat, tunnel, engine, under carriage, everything but what was waxed with ARMOURALL (vinyl protectant). This will help stop the aluminum from discoloring and turning white.
10. Push steel wool into the exhaust pipe. Just enough to stop anything from entering (ie MICE, CHIPMONKS etc)
11. Place moth balls on the air intake part of the air box, along the running boards and around the under carriage. This also helps prevent those harry critters from living with your pride and joy.
12. Before you close the hood its always a good idea to leave a note under the hood reminding you in the fall to readjust the track as per manufacturers specs and to wipe the primary and secondary clutch with alcohol or thinner to clean off any armourall before reinstalling the drive belt.
13. Cover your sled and store in a dry area.
14. After this procedure is complete do not start the engine this will only defeat the purpose of all the work you just performed.
15. Additional things that could be done but these were not steps I took.
A) Raise the sled as to let both front and rear suspension hang in a relaxed position.
B) Add a good brand name fuel stabilizer into the fuel tank.
NOTE: This will also work for your lawnmower, motorcycle,atv etc.
The Hanover Neustadt Snowmobile Club will not be held responsible for any malfuction due to errors
Check your manual for specifications and procedures or Contact your Dealer
Design By Mike Pierunek